Stinky plumbing...concrete solutions

Q: Hi Ed,

We have a very embarrassing problem in our basement and I hope you can help. About a year ago we decided to remodel our basement complete with a toilet, bathroom sink, and a bar sink. Since we were lower than the house drains, a sewer ejector pump was needed for the job. Against my wishes, my husband had the bright idea to work with a relative who is not a plumber but claimed to "know as much" as a plumber. Apparently he did not, and now every time the ejector pump runs we get a stinky sewer smell in the bar sink area. How can we fix this? -- Betty, Ohio

A: Betty, before you sentence your husband to a smelly cell for not using a real plumber, let me tell you that you're not alone! I get many letters just like yours when it comes to sewer ejector pumps and installations that do not meet local codes. A sewer ejector pit is a closed drum or storage tank that sits below grade. Inside the tank is a heavy duty grinding pump that discharges the sewer water from the plumbing fixtures up to the house sewer lines. The tank itself is sealed tight to contain odors, and the tank usually requires a separate vent pipe called a local vent. A local vent should vent uninterrupted up through the roof of a home to the outside air.

Local codes vary and a sewer ejector needs to be vented according to your local codes and permits may be required in your area. Your odor problem could be caused by many factors, but a likely scenario could be a venting issue with the ejector and or/fixtures.

If, when the pump kicks on and the tank and/or fixtures aren't vented properly, a suction may be created in your drain lines when water is discharged from the tank. If the suction is strong enough to pull the water out from your bar sink trap, well now you have an open drain line directly to the sewer ejector. Hence the smell!

You need to have a licensed plumber check out the system, pull permits if needed, and install the proper vent lines. The plumber also should check valves, and controls needed to bring the job up to code.

Q: Ed, you are the plumbing expert for the country and we know you'll have the right advice for us! We have a slab foundation and our kitchen sink drain line is broken or crushed under the cement floor. The sink will not drain, no matter what we try. How do we get access to this pipe without destroying the kitchen? Any suggestions are welcome! -- David, Mississippi

A: Dear David, I think you know what I'm about to say, but I understand that you're looking for someone to tell what you want to hear. Well, I can't do that ... sorry. The only way I know to get the proper access to drain the water lines located under a concrete floor, is to break open the floor and dig out around the pipes. Usually the access hole has to be larger than the problem area of the pipe so you can have room for repairs.

In the kitchen this may include ripping out the base cabinets and you may also have to replace the floor so everything matches.

You may want to contact your insurance company to see if any of the work may be covered under your homeowners policy, which may help offset some of the costs. Also, get some estimates before you start this job. Bottom line is that you need a working kitchen sink, and you'll need to have the money put aside for this job so you don't dig yourself into a hole!

(Master Contractor/Plumber Ed Del Grande is known internationally as the author of the book "Ed Del Grande's House Call" and for hosting TV shows on Scripps Networks and HGTVPro.com. For information visit eddelgrande.com or write eddelgrande(at)hgtvpro.com. Always consult local contractors and codes. For more stories visit scrippsnews.com)